The Sinhasth Mela in Nasik & Tryambakeshwar is held once every twelve years when Jupiter enters Leo. This was on July 30, 2003 when the Dharma flag was hoisted and the Kumbh Mela officially began.

On August 12, the first Shahi Snan (bath) is held in Tryambakeshwar on the full moon.
On August 17, the Sun enters Leo.
On August 27, the second Shahi Snan (bath) is held in Tryambakeshwar. It is the new moon and along with Jupiter and the Sun, Moon enters Leo.
On September 7, the third Shahi Snan (bath) is held in Tryambakeshwar.
The Sinhasth Mela in Nasik will go on till August 2004 until Jupiter is in Leo.

Shanti Mandir at the Kumbh Mela
Thoughts of a participant

August 23 – Saturday - Arrival

We arrive in Tryambakeshwar after a five-hour drive from Mumbai. A familiar welcome with the Yeola Brass Band as Gurudev makes his way to his abode for the next 5 days. Padma along with crew have come three days before to prepare the space for the arriving visitors. Dinner is served immediately. Evening arati is chanted followed by Shiva Mahimnah, Raghupati Raghava Rajaram and Jaya Jaya Arati Nityananda. Evening darshan and Prasad (Elaichi kela/Baby bananas) are distributed to everyone.

The location is superb – lush green hills and valley, the air is filled with the fragrance of monsoon as the rains continue to come and go in their own rhythm. It is now early morning 5:00 a.m. and various sounds are heard through the loud speakers. Once again the Shanti Mandir routines are established: chanting, meals, hot water distribution. The time-honored disciplines provide the steadiness and the shakti.

We are residing at the residence of a Brahmin family Puroshottam Dixitji whose family has lived in Tryambakeshwar for 10 generations. A large photograph of Baba has been installed and creates our focus for the days to come. Devotees continue to arrive and the public continues to swell as we are approaching the second auspicious bath known as the Shahi Snan to be held on August 27th. We are conveniently located between the Temple and the Kushavart Tirth (bathing kund).

August 24 – Sunday - Our Second day

We have completed a full day at the Kumbh Mela. Today the highlights were darshan of Shiva Lingam at the temple, observing a Bhandara at the Akhada on behalf of Mahamandaleshwar Swami Maheshwaranandji. Mahamandaleshwar Gita Bhartiji spoke about knowledge saying, “You can have everything that the world has to offer but without knowledge there is no fulfillment or satisfaction.”
Gurudev came and joined us and a satisfying discussion was held. The questions ranged from polluted water, why women wear bindis, how old is the Kumbh Mela and how is that although India has been ruled by Muslims and British for 700 years -- Hinduism or Dharma still pervades.

Padma continues to update us regarding Shahi Snan. It has been suggested that the ladies wear red and or yellow saris and the men in yellow dhotis and red angavastrams.

We chant the arati /Shiva Mahimnah followed by Shivaya Namah Om – a reminder that this week Shiva chants are honored. The profound experience of beauty in all these events is enhanced because we are here with Gurudev and many other great beings. The chaos, crowds, noise, and disorganization are secondary to the richness of the sacred ceremonies, observances and his company. Lavarji encourages us and explains that it is the energy of these rishis or saints who bathe in the river or kund that we want to receive. This advice affects our perception and offers us a fresh perspective.

Participating in the Shahi Snan requires that we reach the Akhada at 3:00 a.m. and begin the procession at 4:30 a.m. The faith, trust, desire present amongst so many bhaktas and devotees is astounding and palpable. After 5-6 hours waiting for darshan a woman states, “I have gone to heaven or I have experienced heaven.” Such is their conviction.

August 25th – Monday – Our Third Day

Today we walked in a procession with the band leading our way through the small, winding streets to the Samadhi of Nivrittinath, (Jnaneshwar’s brother). The band played even though at times it rained. We opened our umbrellas and proceeded to our destination. At the end, the priest sang some bhajans from Nivrittinath.

From there we visited Mahamandaleshwar Shivendra Puriji. Gurudev will be attending another Bhandara today. There are hundreds of people moving about the streets with various colored ponchos and 5 Rupee bags with advertisements covering themselves from the rains. They stand for hours waiting for darshan.

Swami Vishveshwaranandji arrives and joins us for afternoon tea. A special puja is performed by 11 Brahmins known as, “Laghu Rudra Abhishek”. Gurudev performs the evening puja followed by Arati. Between the kund and Temple, the streets are being cleaned and widened. There is a beautiful wind. Rains continue throughout. Keeping the tent dry becomes the biggest challenge. At 10:00 p.m. they are filtering the water at the bathing kund. Completely emptying the kund of all water, the people are collecting various coins, cloth and coconuts. With so many sounds, vibrations, bands, smells – at times the senses are overloaded almost beyond their capacity.

August 26 – Tuesday – Our Fourth Day

The crowds really begin to swell. The Heart begins to expand and fill itself with joy, and bliss, welling up continuously like a well with no end.

The Akhada is about 45 minutes one way. We are expected to make this journey at 2:30 a.m. the following morning. More and more pilgrims arrive. Gurudev calls for a satsang at 5:00 p.m. beginning with a chant followed by a brief talk by Sharmaji, more kirtan, Evening Arati, Shiva Mahimnah, Om Mahadeva, Jaya Jaya Arati Nityananda followed by dinner. At the end our host honors Gurudev and expresses his appreciation for his presence. Final instructions are given to all that after having Prasad, everyone should proceed to bed and chai will be served at 2:15 am -- departure to the Maha Nirvani Akhada will be at 2:30 a.m.

August 27 – Wednesday – Our Fifth Day - The 2nd Shahi Snan

We all set forth on this journey. Gurudev and company are taken by cars and meet at the Akhada. There are people everywhere. With flags, bands, chariots - the procession is about to take place. I myself am so taken by our own Yeola brass band that I remain alongside them for 2 hours. I become completely absorbed and intoxicated and become filled with gratitude by my good fortune. I am constantly having darshan of Gurudev, the sky, the clouds, the rain and stars. It seems all the elements are bearing witness to this magnificent occasion and I thank the Gods for their creation, existence and beauty. The atmosphere is charged, magical, powerful, magnificent and rare.

As we parade through the streets there is so much to take in. I feel my mind completely dissolve literally into the sea of humanity and oneness is experienced - shimmering, scintillating, shakti vibrating everywhere. As we approach the bathing kund, the intensity becomes totally overwhelming. I accompany Gurudev for a dip and in moments it is complete. Some people continued to the temple for darshan and many of us return to our SM abode for a bath and change of clothes. We are grateful to the God of Rain for he has not showered heavily. We have a moment of reflection and are given a few moments to absorb and digest this exceptional experience.

There are no words, feelings, or expressions to capture that which has been bestowed upon us. We can only offer our pranams to Gurudev for making it all possible and to that Supreme consciousness for its existence in everything. We are asked to rest until the afternoon and chai will be served around 5:00 p.m. Everyone is refreshed by the evening and ready for satsang. There is 1 night left.

August 28th- Thursday - Our Sixth Day

Samashti Bhandara – We have all arrived at Shri Panchayati Maha Nirvani Akhada to offer our Bhandara to the Sadhu Samaj. We wait for the 2nd sitting of lunch. Afterwards, as we depart to Mumbai, we feel a sense of accomplishment at having participated in 3 Kumbh Melas. Of the four, one to goooooooooooo Ujjain, May 2004!